My cheap 4-channel TX needed an upgrade, so I went large ($50!) and got myself a Turnigy 9x v2 for Christmas. Months later it arrived.

Model Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39468

Halloween is one of the ultimate maker holidays!

Silly me, I almost dropped $30 on one of these bluetooth game controllers for iOS… and thankfully I got my brain back in order and started thinking about how I could hack some stuff I already own to do this.

Certainly not the first introduction of tech to the wife’s garden, but first application of 3D printing.

I love the little router and battery combination that is the Minipwner.  However, I was not fond of the cable hanging out between the battery and the router.

If you’re like me and sometimes print from different hosts (desktop at home, laptop remotely), then you may have run into some issues in getting your settings all synced up between those machines.

The technical details of the bottom, or first layer, on a reprap print was something that eluded my understanding when I first started working with my printer.  Here’s my best understanding of the subject, as it relates to your reprap (or repstrap or TOM) and your slicing software.  I focus on skeinforge in particular.

A few days back, I saw the post on Hackaday about how you can solder a USB cable and some components on the powerbutton/wireless module from a XBOX 360 and use it as a host for wireless controllers on your PC.